The V.V. Vegan Fried Chicken Showdown 🍿, Battle 6 ½:
Hartbreakers vs. Gradient BK

With an ever-growing field of vegan fried chicken at my fingertips, I made an addition to my brackets. I had to. After hearing the vegan fried chicken sandwich at Bushwick’s new all-vegan bar and event space Gradient was house made, I told my friend to meet me there… because unless obligated to meet someone on a Friday night, I may succumb to the week’s exhaustion and the clutches of my couch.

But where would Gradient fit in my already established brackets? A bit put off by being at the mercy of Orchard Grocer‘s inconsistent fried chicken special, which often offers it with a wide selection of garnish possibilities, I decided to face it off versus Hartbreakers, who was waiting patiently for a showdown and who was also in Bushwick, just a few blocks of “oh my, winter’s coming” winds away. So call this Battle 6½… The winner of this triad would go up against Orchard Grocer and their clout of having earned their spot in Round 2 by defeating Clean Meals Brooklyn in Round 1. Let’s do this!

Gradient BK, Bushwick
Fried Chicken Sandwich

When I walked into the inviting open space of the Gradient across from the Jefferson stop on the L, Beach House’s Myth was playing, one of my most favorite songs. Now, ok, this battle is not about the best song heard upon entering the eatery, but this song–loud–as you are moving a curtain aside walking into a new space, there’s enough content there for a short film, possibly starring Harry Dean Stanton. But back to the real battle, their Fried Chicken Sandwich–breaded and fried seitan, house pickles, and a “honey” mustard along with a bunch of hand cut fries.

It arrived quickly and, at first glance, was smaller than I expected. But the craggy breading within the nice ambiance and a mezcal cocktail at its side, it was a highlight of my week in regards to self-care. After a few pictures, it’d be in my hands.

And it had a wonderful crunch at first bite. Now let me clarify this vegan fried chicken “crunch”… it’s not a potato chip crunch, it’s a more a feeling than a sound, the pinnacle of vegan fried chicken texture–the result of crisply fried breading. It denotes superior texture contrast–moisture contained within a shell of a crisp exterior. Gradient‘s vegan fried chicken had it. And a lot more.

Though thin, the seitan was so succulent. This is also a word so powerful, describing the ideal texture of seitan which can be gummy and dense. Gradient‘s interior seitain was so moist and… succulent. It might be a first for this Showdown. It was so delightfully delicious in a different way–dare I say femininely? This is a woman-owned establishment. And the ladies in the Gradient were friendly, informative, and happy you are there.

Other highlights were the soft bun, the “honey” mustard and all that the mustard seeds do to presentation. And the pickles, a very important component. I did miss a creamy mild tart of a mayo-y sauce. And was mildly let down by the size of the cutlet, but mostly for its photogenicity. Overall, I was floored by this surprise addition and thankful to Vegan Eats NYC for her lead.

My T.G.I.F. cocktail–Winter Vacation. It has mezcal, pineapple, elderflower and aquafaba. It’s the aquafaba I was asking the nice bartender about, having never seen it in a cocktail. She explained it absorbed and enhanced all of the cocktail’s flavor components and made a nice frothiness for the drink. A nod to the mid century cocktail addition of egg whites for a viscous texture and foam cap.

Hartbreakers, Bushwick
The Thunderbird

We headed onward to Hartbreakers to split yet another vegan fried chicken sandwich, enjoying the many murals along the way. Thankfully Hartbreakers had plenty of seats and a friendly counter person. Fried chicken is Hartbreakers‘ thing. They were an early favorite as they were first on top this now hot food trend. At least here on the East Coast. And they do it right. As this vegan fried chicken sandwich, the Thunderbird, was set in front of me I knew the battle would be a very close one. Closer than any battle thus far.

It contained a big slab of breaded and fried seitan, a tangy slaw of red cabbage, carrot and kale; pickles; and a creamy cilantro-jalapeño aioli on a soft sesame seed bun. A great sandwich which had us “mmmm-ing” audibly throughout each bite. All the components together create a standard of taste and texture for vegan chicken sandwich. Beautiful and seasoned craggy breading–enviable. Overall, Hartbreakers is quintessential–and established in 2018, it’s officially “old school” vegan fried chicken. Respect is due.

I mean–look at this beautiful cragginess! I clutch my hart (sic. Intended typo unlike the many I don’t intend. Do you keep track of my grammar, ya nerd?)

Despite all of the wonder, its only flaw is a sizable one in regards to texture. The seitan exterior is perfection, but interior–very dense and not imparted with much flavor. Given then width and length of the cutlet, this flaw a magnified a bit as you bite the towards the center cutlet, where its width is at its maximum.

Winner: Gradient BK 🎉

In the end, an option I just learned about a couple of days ago manages to enter into the semi-finals, officially battling Orchard Grocer with it pink ombré boxing gloves. It was a texture battle in Bushwick–succulence vs. density (say it like Marty McFly). I’m a bit shocked about this turn of events, but Gradient has all the goods to make it even farther in this Showdown. I’m excited to move forward in my East Village (Honeybee’s vs. Superiority Burger) battle soon. The Finals here we come!