The V.V. Vegan Fried Chicken Showdown 🍿, Battle 1:
Superiority Burger vs. MTHR Vegan

Superiority Burger, East Village
T.F.T. (Tofu-Fried Tofu) Sandwich

Superiority Burger is a tiny space in the East Village with some amazing vegetarian offerings masterminded by Chef Brooks Headley. Don’t expect frills like French fries, a bathroom, an open seat, personal space, etc in this 300 square feet. Just great food. Food that lines ’em up out the door, still, even years after its opening. A Monday special, the Tofu-Fried Tofu or T.F.T. sandwich, had me waiting in line hoping and praying they wouldn’t sell out of the very popular offering by the time I reached the counter.

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The sandwich is a big deal. Eater called it “One of NYC’s Best Chicken Sandwiches” despite the fact that it is not chicken at all. It is vegan, made from tofu treated right–coated in a vegan egg mixture and dredged in a mix of chickpea, buckwheat, rice, and all purpose flour. Though you can get the full recipe in Headley’s cookbook, just get in line and spend the $7. Yes, $7! Literally half of the price of the icky Impossible Burger on most menus! (I’m looking at you, Bareburger. How many James Beard awards have your chef won, Bareburger?) Now, the first vegan fried chicken contender…

It was absolutely delicious. Of course it was. But this battle, this showdown, will be won in the little details. So here are the little details: The texture of the skin was a bit mushy. I wish it had as much crunch as it appeared it would have. But I’ma (Kanya) be straight up—I walked to the Astor Cube to eat it in peace, a walk that had it wrapped in foil, steaming itself. That’s on me.

The skin was very flavorful, but too thick. I wanted more tofu within because it would have helped balance the flavor–which was assertive with a kick. Add the very acidic slaw and it was a bit imbalanced. The spice rub, noted on the Eater article, also very powerful: tangy Sumac, cocoa, garlic and coffee. Holy flavor bomb! I’d love just a little note of sweetness somewhere, just a tiny note, like maybe a sweet pickle in the slaw.

Again, it was a very good vegan chicken sandwich with tremendous focus on flavor-packing every bite. The treatment of the tofu truly raises the bar. But a larger slab of tofu within the flavorful coating might have sent his over the moon. Or a sauce with a bit more sweetness.

MTHR Vegan, Hell’s Kitchen
Chicken Fried Tofu Sandwich

There’s all sorts of skyscrapers popping up on the west side. And there seems to be a requirement of public seating and park-like features on the ground floor. And eateries abound, perfect for the 9-5 lunch crowd and their happy hours. The recently opened MTHR Vegan is one of these eateries in the courtyard of Worldwide Plaza. And it’s 100% vegan.

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I came by for their Chicken Fried Tofu sandwich, two deep-fried tofu patties topped a buffalo wing slaw and a side of chipotle mayo. The sandwich had thick slabs of tofu, moist and with a pleasing bouncing bite. But the breading was more oily and wet than craggy and crunchy. And you need the crag in vegan fried chicken. Texture is so very important.

I enjoyed the slaw, but it had way to much buffalo sauce. Like Superiority, the sauce was too high in acidity and lacking a balancing note of sweetness. The chipotle mayo had a nice subtle heat that made a bite more delicious. Did I mention it was delicious? I meant to. I’ll tell you right now that all the vegan fried chicken in the showdown will be delicious. So it’s down to the small details.

A great sideview…

…and a great thickness of tofu.

With the fries, it was a bit too much food.

Decision: Superiority Burger! 🎉

The technical care and prep of the tofu makes Superiority Burger the winner. Congratulations… and I will not walk to Astor Place when you face Honeybee’s in your second battle.