Summer Eats: Bánh mì

Bánh mì is the perfect summer eat. It’s vibrant, flavorful and not too heavy. It’s great on the go, is on-the-cheap and, thanks to a long lifespan of buzz… including a recent episode of This American Life, is sprouting up all over the place! Not to mention the portion is usually substantial. But where, in the international city of New York, can the best vegan Bánh mì be found? Here is quick guide–part 1–complete with exterior shots, to help steer you towards deliciousness in the often elusive world of Bánh mì. A word of warning, hit the ATM and know how to order: fast and furious.

Nhá Tối
160 Havemeyer street between S. 2nd and S. 3rd streets (Williamsburg, Brooklyn)

I am partial to my neighborhood, especially since I have demoted my metrocard to a pay-per-use for the summer without the daily treck to work (that’s a lot of prepositions), but also because I like a good walking destination. Let’s face it, sometimes the only thing that pushes me out of my apartment is a hunger pang. But that aside, Nhá Tối makes a solid, albeit pricey (at nearly double the Chinatown joints’ price), sandwich. Their vegetarian ham Bánh mì, the only veg-option, doesn’t skimp; with a layer of both salty faux-ham and tofu, an abundance of sweet pickled veggies and fresh herbs with a kick of soy sauce, it’s quite satisfying. Buuut I am suspicious of this faux ham. When I asked about the sandwich being vegan the friendly counter guy’s answer wasn’t confidently definitive. After a little research at the VV Desk on popular faux-meat purveyor May Wah‘s website I learned that their faux ham as contains albumen powder. As I don’t care to further any ickiness that may arise in the confirmation that I ate an egg product, I am going to think about that tomorrow. After all, tomorrow is another day.

Num Pang Sandwich Shop
21 East 12th Street between University and 5th avenue (Union Square, Manhattan)

Right next to the hell that is Union Square, the is nothing elusive about Num Pang’s location. And you pay for this convenience as their sandwich run a bit higher and baguettes a bit smaller. The roasted cauliflower Bánh mì is Num Pang’s only vegan sandwich option on the regular menu… but it is fantastic. This sandwich delivers a lot of flavor. It’s dressed with a savory Chinese & Thai eggplant spread that couples so deliciously with the pickled carrots, cucumber and soy-based chipotle mayo. Round out the spice with a their tropical fruit salad: fresh lychee, young coconut, mango, papaya, pineapple, watermelon with lemongrass and mint. Note that at the time of my visit they had another vegetarian sandwich option on their specials menu… roasted salt & pepper Japanese yam with sauteed chard and cipollini onions. Seating is available upstairs. Face the wall so no one catches sight of you ripping through it ravenously with a ring of chipotle mayo around your mouth.

Paris Sandwich
113 Mott Street between Hester and Canal streets (Chinatown, Manhattan)

First let me say that this is real authentic Vietnamese Bánh mì joint. Even if judging solely by the location and clients alone, that much is abundantly clear. At the counter the older woman turned me over to a younger gal who spoke English and I placed my order for their vegetarian chicken baguette, the Bánh Mì Chay, their only veggie option. Chay, I have ascertained, means “vegetarian”. This I learned reading their menu in the eat-in area, which is more plentiful than most other shops. I’ll get to the sandwich in a second… so as I snapped the picture of the sandwich an employee came over motioning that I refrain from using my camera. Huh? I thought. But it’s mine now. I bought it! It was quite confusing until I remembered that episode of This American Life that I mentioned before where opportunistic entreprenauers were jumping on the Bánh mì craze and copying established eateries’ exact menus! So, I had to pack half of my sandwich to go, snap a pic of the exterior like a trained sniper and escape to a porch in Little Italy where I could photograph the sandwich safely kinda-sorta in another country. Ok, the sandwich. Paris has nothing to fear. Their product is quite standard. Standardly delicious of course, thanks to fresh veggies and warm bread. The vegetarian chicken, however, was a glutinous shredded mushroom-like layer that was a bit bland. I have to return for their desserts, whose descriptions are awfully similar to the coconut milk heavenly bits I devoured daily in Thailand a few years back.

Saigon Vietnamese Sandwich (sometimes referred to as Vietnam Bánh Mì Sổ 1)
369 Broome Street between Elizabeth and Mott streets (Chinatown, Manhattan)

Now if you’re a Bánh mì spy, hoping to open up your own, um, franchise, this is where you go to learn the ropes. Saigon does it theee best. They also have four, that’s right four, vegan sandwiches they note on their menu: the Bánh mì chay (a standard without mayo or meat, just veggies), the Bánh mì chay đạc biêt (with tofu and mushroom), the Bánh Mì Chay Đậu Hũ, Xả Ớt Rau (lemongrass tofu) and Bánh Mì Chay Cari (a curry tofu). No questionable soy science meat or thawed faux-meat concoctions. Tofu. Fresh, crisp veggies. Clearly-indicated vegan options. Like a whole bunch of cilantro. Very friendly service. Huge warm baguettes. (and close to Babycakes.) Perfect.