Old World Italian with a Vegan Menu

John’s Of 12th Street in Manhattan’s East Village, is a landmark of authentic Italian dining that’s been around since 1908. Stepping off East 12th street into the long narrow procession of starched white table clothes and napkins, you become a part of the pulse of this place. You dodge the many waiters, career waiters, to meet the restaurant’s Maître d’ in the middle of the restaurant. He’ll squeeze you in somewhere even though you hadn’t the foresight to make a reservation. You accept the slight resentment because you should have known: this place has a loyal following. The restaurant is packed but not with those you’d normally see in the East Village: extended families with their children, seasoned patriarchs, serious and focused eaters who, in the muted light, seem like extras in some Scorsese film. As the light pours through the stained glass on the ceiling and the hugh church-like candles flicker and the 12′ long table fills across from you with 4 generations of a family, you realize that John’s is the kind of restaurant that demands a more calculated visit. It merits planning and your time and your respect.

It is not the kind of place you would expect to have a separate vegan menu, complete with appetizers, desserts, entrees and Daiya cheese. But they do for whatever reason. CandyPenny and I, both being Italian and vegan, had to try their offerings sooner than later. We feasted on craft ales from the beautiful Ninth Ward, trying to meet the minimum, quell our hunger and span the two hours we had until John’s opened. Flash forward, feeling tipsy and finally seated, we had to vacate our table in time for a reservation a little over an hour later. John’s was refusing folks at the door. The place filled up with many upping their carbohydrates for the NYC Marathon the next day. We weren’t running a marathon; we just wanted some vegan Italian!

We ordered the vegan garlic bread (below). I thought it a bit dry and would have benefited from the almighty olive oil and some real smushy, roasted garlic. It seemed to just have a sprinkle of garlic powder.

I ordered the tomato, spinach and tofu ravioli. I can’t resist a fresh-made ravioli. It was very delicious and, with a sprinkle of the vegan parmesan they brought to us, a traditional and pleasing dish. There were plenty other vegan dishes to choose from so I’ll have to come back. 

For dessert I had the vegan panna cotta and CandyPenny, the vanilla cannoli. We rushed through as our table’s availability was soon to expire. The panna cotta was a rich custard with a subtle coconut flavor. Not too sweet at all. It would have benefited from my ordering a sweet liquore. Again, next time.

I want to go back to John’s Of 12th Street. The staff and energy of the place is truly special.