Day 3 in Deutschland, Vegan Eats in Nürnberg, Germany
August 2, 2013
Nürnberg, a Bavarian city about an hour away from where I am staying, is a bit bustling. It at points felt like San Francisco, then Boston… and then like a Medieval village with an impressive Imperial castle and exquisitely ornate spired churches… and then there’s the city’s significance in the Nazi era.
Around the city’s many historical sites are many restaurants and cafes. Our lunch destination, the all-vegan Jo Johannis, offered us a variety of vegan sweets and a hearty dish to help us explore the city on a sweltering hot day.
In most restaurants, English menus are not available, but in a tourist destination like Nürnberg, you can rely on people to know some English. I seized my first opportunity to try a vegan cupcake, making my meal a 3-course delight: cupcake, lunch, then ice cream cone. The cupcake flavor was described by the helpful counterman as cappuccino. I think. I was adoring it in the display case so much that I was distracted. It tasted to me like a light cocoa. The cream on top was fantastic and nostalgic–like Devil Dog cream, my friend pinpointed.
Jo Johannis had a full spread of flavorful coconut ice creams, hot caffeinated beverages, and a hot dish of the day.
The dish was delicate and flakey balls of falafel, with housemade hummus, a green salad topped with an herbed housemade dressing, and soft, pliable pita. It was fresh and delicious, like you want every vegan meal to be.
We were all excited for the ice cream. I had a two-scoop cone of dreamy vanilla and banana. It was creamy and flavorful. Did I say flavorful a few times? Well, I’ll say it a few more times. My vanilla bean speckled ice cream knocked my socks off. Army Dad got an apple scoop and mango scoop, Mom got a cupcake with a scoop of rum raisin, and the kids got double chocolate and apple.
After our lunch, it was time to see some sights. We sought refuge from the sun in the glorious St. Sebaldus Church, a Romanesque church build in the 13th century covered in impressive oil painting, agonized statues, and stained glass.
I loved this intricately detailed monument that sat in the church on snail shells.
The skyhigh cathedral ceilings looked miles upward.
This organ blazed as a tuned the corner in the church with a start. It was extraordinary.
After our church visit, we walked towards Hauptmarkt, one of the city’s squares. We found a low-priced antique store on the way. It had a back room with plenty of miltaria, including some Nazi artifacts, including this board game. The collector, whose English and half-sleeve viking tattoo was impressive, answered our many questions and let us pour over everything slowly. The swastikas on the Nazi artifacts were always covered, as was Hitler’s mustache.
This gorgeous puppet theater, complete with a whole cast of characters, would look great in my classroom. The price was good, too.
Here is a shot of Hauptmarkt‘s border, the Imperial Castle on the left and the lovely Pilatushaus.
The Imperial Castle, built sometime before the year 1100.
The view from the top of the castle.
It was a long day of taking in the sights in the hot sun. Unfortunately we wasted time trecking to Cafe Klatsch not once but twice… and it was closed. The owners must be on holiday. Darn, an all-vegan spot I can’t hit.
After hunger pangs grew deep we went back to the city’s center to find an eatery by instinct and bask in the glorious air and cool temperature on the cobblestone. We found a place that accommodated everyone thankfully. I didn’t even catch the name of the place, but here is the triple-decker veggie sandwich they created for my veganness.