Blessed are the Vegan Sandwich Makers
Sunnyside, Queens

I am hitting all the boroughs up for their vegan sandwiches! This stop would take me to Sunnyside, Queens–a locale I hadn’t been to since another vegan mission 10 years ago.

There are plenty of eateries that you’d assume would throw a vegan option on their menu. Perhaps the assumption is based on neighborhood, alignment to the place’s ethos or tagline, social media presence, aesthetic, font choice (lol)–whatever! But now it is getting harder to know who would offer a vegan a fantastic choice. Having developed an instinct of finding vegan food, I stumbled upon discoveries Tess McGillis-style. Finding Bolivian Llama Party is one such discovery.

As with many South American cuisines, I presumed Bolivian food would be very meat & dairy-centric. But Bolivian Llama Party offers traditional Bolivian food with a modern flair. It was that “modern” part I was thankful for. It meant vegan options. And that is why I trekked all the way to Sunnyside. For the Vegan Aji Jackfruit Chola.

The Vegan Aji Jackfruit Chola is pulled jackfruit drenched in a hot, sweet and savory BBQ sauce, aji amarillo (yellow pepper) topped with vegan mayo and dusted with vegan parm. On the side, a mix of pickled veggies and their “punchy” salsa. I added tempeh bacon and avocado to bring the total up to over $20… for one sandwich. Kinda steep, yes, but I don’t mind helping out during this tough time for eateries. Plus I was going to get to try Bolivian food! Or, modern Bolivian food.

I really enjoyed the jackfruit–it was flavorful and was not watery as it is in some places. I should have put my pickles on the sammy to diversify the texture.

Great components, but the vegan parmesan dominated a bit too much flavor-wise. I’d opt out of the parm if I returned so I can better enjoy the sandwich’s more exciting parts.

Ok, let’s talk about this bun. I was pretty suspicious of it right away. I was certain that was some kind of animal ingredient on top, but I had heard the counter girl explain several times to different customers that the vegan sandwich was made with vegan bread, and the vegetarian version of the bun was made with egg. Still, I peeled off what looked suspicious to me and proceeded. The bread was very soft–a texture often attributed to animal products.

Upon searching their website I see the bun listed as Bolivian Sarnitas Bread, made in-house, sold separately, with a baked cheese crust. But there is no listing of a vegan version of the bread that would have been used for the vegan version of the sandwich. So, long story short–either I accidentally got the wrong bun or… worse, “vegan” is being misused. Either way, it’s a simple fix. If this was the regular style world, and not this Covid world, I could have simply asked my server. But a picked apart bun would be the temporary solution as I was already long-gone. If you’re a vegan visiting Bolivian Llama Party, double-check the bun situation and hit me back!

This is a bit of growing pain I am noticing as eateries try out vegan options. I’m going to call it “vegan burger on a brioche bun”-ism, when most or the main components are vegan, but sauces/breads/etc’s ingredients are not scrutinized. Veganism is a path for an individual, and it will also be for an omni-eatery. I want to help—not demonize or dissuade eateries who begin to offer vegan options. This way I get to continue making unlikely vegan discoveries.