Big Bend National Park
Day 2 in Texas, Part 2
April 23, 2019
This would be my 24th National Park. 24 out of 61. Big Bend National Park lies right at the US-Mexico border, bordered by the glorious Rio Grande of Duran Duran fame. I was slightly bummed that the day would–and into the evening–would be mostly cloudy. I looked forward to shooting the stars for quite some time now. But there was absolutely nothing to mope about.
Why is it that Park Rangers are always so awesome? I guess because they hold the key to making the most of the park–information and expertise. On this visit I determined that I worship nature. And on this pilgrimage, the Park Ranger is my trusted priest–or priestess in this case. She helped me create a feasible itinerary for the day and evening. And she helped me avoid travel where my car would likely get stuck given its low clearance… like at the road that leads to the Balanced Rocks I intended to use in my night shoot. That would have been a catastrophe.
So much beauty. When I first enter a National Park I am a pulling over freak–everything is so beautiful and I wasn’t quite accustomed to it yet. But as the day progresses you let your eyes take it in and not worry so much about grabbing every piece of it with a camera. In this way, the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive did its thing. [Ross Maxwell was the park’s superintendent from 1944 to 1952.] This is the top of the Sotol Vista where I would return in the evening to easily shoot the stars from my accommodations… and not get stuck with my little toy car.
The park was not busy at all. Ideal conditions. I want all the beauty for myself. But then you see people and they feel just like you and it’s nice to talk with them briefly. They always want to take your picture for you. You let them but it’s really for them.
“Splendid Isolation, the Big Bend…” The park is part of the Chihuahuan desert, which crosses into the State of Chihuahua, Mexico. Because it is mostly a desert, you can worry less about the big mammals that are more often in other biomes, though there is a portion of the park where bears and Mountain Lions prowl.
Such a diverse array of land, they call it a “geologistβs paradise.” There are also fossil exhibits, exhibits on the locally-loved Road Runner (and they do just that), as well as some hot springs somewhere in its 1,200 square miles.
The Santa Elena Canyon was so impressive. It is within its walls that I would hike, like many others–but fortunately not so many on this day. Here is a canyon wall of 1,500 feet as I drove to the trailhead.
Packed and ready to go, the blue sky and its blazing sun came out to make sure I got some dramatic pictures… and that I would break a hearty sweat.
The start of the trail has the most impressive views… and the hike itself, less than 2 miles roundtrip, is a bit anticlimactic. But how can you want to just sit back and look at this from afar when you can get in (and up) it.
The verde Rio Grande
Starting my ascent. The hike is paved, well-maintained though a bit scrambly with rocks.
Can’t get over flowers on cactuses.
Manmade walls: No. Nature-made walls: Yes.
Red and freckly already I take a break on a rock. A selfie for my efforts. And for my hat.
I sat and drank my water peering down the canyon. And I thought profound things.
These boots have seen a lot of beauty.
The descent. I was ready to check into my room 39 minutes from the park.
Another selfie because I felt so accomplished as demonstrated by the rosy cheeks. Seatbelt selfie #safetyfirst
After checking in and exploring Terlingua, a pretty cool place that will have its own post, I headed back in for dinner at Chisos Mountains Lodge.
The server knew that the black bean burger had whey protein in it and was, therefor, not vegan. Points for him! But the stuffed portobello without cheese would be, thankfully. I was famished. It was good, but it need needed something to break up the salty and garlic. Mmmm, a potato would have been good.
After a brief star shoot outside of my lodging, I packed up my stuff to get into the park for the stars… but conditions were rough. There was cloud cover and there were localized thunder storms that brightened up the sky. And then moon was fiercely bright. Up at the vista there were strong winds that wobbled my tripod. I had to worry about falling down the mountains as I navigated the dark terrain looking for spots for my tripod. Plus there was this car up there with some guy in it. I didn’t know what he was doing there at midnight, but I was fearful of having any interaction with him. And he was likely freaked out about me too! In the end, I didn’t get many good shots. but that is how it is going to go sometimes. The stars were fantastic–all over the place.
I did like the desert shrub in front of the stars.
A beautiful goodbye to Big Bend. If conditions are good tomorrow I will try again! xo v.v.