Bangkok: Wat T. F.

Fighting the rush hour traffic into Bangkok reminded me of home. My tour guide, Kai, and who I will refer to as the quiet one and I arrived at the Grand Place about 9 a.m. The compound of 20+ temples and worshipping sights for both Buddha and the King was a mob scene of international and Thai visitors alike. Since I was dressed in the ultra-revealing clam-diggers I needed to rent a long skirt to enter the compound. The architecture was stunning but one could not stand to admire too long before being bumped and nudged by the hoard of people. In between steps, Kai gave me a brief background on some of the Chinese and Hindu-influenced icons I was snapping pictures of. Unfortunately the the hazy sky did little to brighten up my the vibrant colors of the temples. Within the compound is the very popular Wat Phra Kaeo, or the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The emerald Buddha is encrusted with diamonds and gold (i.e. Buddha-style bling-bling).

Surrounding the Grand Palace were plenty of street vendors offering tourists all kinds of nooks and crannies. Kai treated me to some sliced yellow and red watermelon before finding a suitable place for me to get a strict vegetarian meal. My meal was 60 Baht (less than 2 American dollars) and was delish. Perfectly blanched vegetables in a light sauce with the standard white rice.

After our lunch, we moved onward to cross the Chao Phraya river via the Tha Thien ferry terminal to hit Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn. This Wat was less bustling than those within the Grand Palace and much older. It was covered in a gorgeous mosaic of Chinese porcelain and its prangs were weathered and worn. Kai and I climbed the central prang to get the impressive views of the river and downtown Bangkok. After Wat Arun, I sampled the sweet corn fritters of the street vendors surrounding the ferry terminal. So far, the best food I’ve had here in Thailand!

Next, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, Wat Pho. And just like the name suggests, the temples holds an enormous shiny gold Buddha relaxing on his side. I had to resist the urge to snuggle up and spoon with him.

Then onward to backpackers’ mecca and global tourist crossroad Khao San Road in downtown Bangkok. I think Kai presumed I was a shopper (because I am woman? because I am American?) and so was baffled when I was unenthusiastic about perusing the shops and stalls of this area. But as a New Yorker, I equate Khao San road and its perimetering streets like going to Times Square. Tourist prices and tourist belligerence.

On our way back to my homestay in Wangnoi, Kai took me to an enormous fruit market with real local flair.. so much that my presence prompted double-takes and stares, first to me and then towards him. I was wondering how on Earth circumstances aligned to have me spending the entire day with this guy myself. The market was very impressive and brimming with fresh fruits he demanded I try. At the market, we bought mangoes and one huge dragon fruit. Upon my return, dinner at my homestay had long been served and was all-meat anyway. Hmph. I am beginning to wonder if eating vegetarian in Thailand will be as fulfilling as I had thought. I nuked a plate of white rice and smeared the only fitting condiment available on top… a squeeze from a tube of Vegemite. Ew. What is this stuff?

Evenings are slow at the homestay and I’m looking forward to being on my own watch. If it weren’t for my new moleskin journal and all of you in my thoughts, I’d be hijacking a tuk-tuk and heading south to the islands where doing nothing is more acceptable.