5 Boroughs in 5 Days: Staten Island

I can count the number of times I’ve been to Staten Island on one hand–exactly!  But hey, how often would you want to visit what was once the world’s largest garbage dump?  The tremendous Fresh Kills landfill was only closed in 2001, not that long ago.  Now add to that recovery timeline this:  it was reopened in 2001 as the sorting site for one third of the debris from the 9/11 attacks.  How long does it take to undo the damage of 150 million tons of waste–residential waste, commercial waste, medical waste, debris from the World Trade Center, which contains human remains?  The borough’s cancer rates are consistently higher than all of the other boroughs.  Some reports (referenced here) say Staten Islander cancer rates are 20% higher than the national average.  And what other health impacts has Fresh Kills had on Staten Island residents?  Forget the Butterfly Effect, how about the 150 Million Tons of Waste Effect?  The mind boggles.

So negative associations with the borough are plentiful, since I was a kid when my Dad referred to it often as “a dump.”  (But our bedrooms were often “dumps” too, and the kitchen table. Dumps and pigsty’s a-plenty. And Grand Central Station. Dad sayings are fascinating, regional and steeped in tradition. I want to write a book on them.)  Alas, the want of thorough vegan reporting in New York City can move me to action and, sometimes, alter good judgment.  Staten Island is part of New York City, and I love New York City.  So let’s go!  Besides, it’s just right over that Italian stallion spanning the Narrows. And now I’m intrigued, in an Erin Brockovich way, in the same way I’d like to one day visit Chernobyl.

The first and last last meal I ate on Staten Island was Sri Lankan.  Now, with cause for more exploration in this series of 5 Boroughs in 5 Days, we had the opportunity to sample the borough’s premiere Sri Lankan eatery, Lakruwana in Tompkinsville, a.k.a. Little Sri Lanka.  Lakruwana is part eatery, part museum–all authentic Sri Lankan.

Extravagant…

…Sri Lankan decor

We came for the Sunday buffet, which was mostly vegan.  Plenty of flavor to go around.

Piles of vegetables are my favorite piles: Kale & coconut, pineapple curry, vegetable curry, spicy eggplant, cassava, lentils, etc

These commandment-type things were all posted in the bathroom. Intriguing. “The liar falls into hell” toilet paper holder.  I want this for my apartment.

While nearby, we checked out Fort Wadsworth.  Because I love decaying places.  The Fort has a long history that the very friendly rangers told us.  But I forgot it all.  

Home on the other side of the Verrazzano.

Luckily we got there when the ranger was there and could explore the Fort. Otherwise, the gate is locked.

With some time to kill before dinner, some Staten Island beer, a recommendation from my new teacher colleague who is from Staten Island. Flagship Brewery‘s taproom in St. George.

Also before dinner, some walking in random trails. This little fawn we saw was pretty adorbs, though this picture sucks. 

Then, finally, it was dinner time. I was so excited to learn that Enoteca Maria, the famed eatery that features a rotating menu created by “Nonnas,” grandmothers, highlighting their family and cultural traditions, now has a vegan menu!  We made a reservation to secure an opportunity to feast. V-bombs are on the menu!

And confirmed vegan bread and speadables… 

Traditional flavors made by Nonna D’Italia were on point. Melanzane Ripiene: Eggplant boats stuffed with rice and a medley of vegetables, then baked in red sauce. 

The Polpettone di Verdure: A baked vegetable loaf with walnuts, lentils, peppers, zucchini, eggplant, squash, carrots, onions, and celery, then topped with tomato sauce.  Really delicious, hearty and flavorful.

I couldn’t leave without taking picture of a Nonna. Here is Nonna Ploumitsa. It was her night and her Greek menu.

Thanks, Staten Island. Glad we didn’t grow additional limbs during our visit. J/k. You’re all right.